For their "chronograph of the year," GPHG selected the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. If this award was for the chronograph movement of the year, they might be on to something. But no, this is for the watch in its entirety, and therein lies the problem.
First, some positivity and praise. The El Primero is an excellent movement. As pictured below, it is a "living legend" among chronograph movements, and this updated version is prize-worthy. In terms of technical specs, it is a performer. The calibre beats away at 10 vibrations per second, which exceeds the frequency of a normal chronograph.
Indeed, its party trick is a chronograph hand that ticks at speed--ten times per second. By moving so quickly, the chronograph hand displays time in 1/10th of a second increments. And aesthetically speaking, the blued column-wheel and horizontal clutch are a nice touch. Overall, this makes for a movement that is both high-performing and visually appealing.
OK, so the movement is impressive. But what about the rest of the watch? At first glance, the dial comes in with Zenith’s signature tri-color layout for the subdials. Unfortunately, the unique Zenith characteristics end there.
Put crudely, this Zenith is an expensive homage to the Rolex Daytona.
And while it may offer a few practical advantages (availability, a date function, and an exhibition caseback), its disadvantages (inferior build quality on the bracelet and bordering-on-infringement design) are existential, sinking the whole effort. As one reviewer put it, the bracelet "looks like it was pinched from a Rolex and done worse."
Simply put, spending $10,000 on a Daytona look-alike is not a smart move. The only thing worse than mindlessly copying the crowd and buying a Rolex is mindlessly buying a copy of that Rolex. It is derivative, and disastrously so.
Now, if the GPGH had nominated Zenith's Revival watch, or even their Chronomaster Original (which is, crucially, original), you'd hear no objection from me. Both are admirable pieces in their own right, and deserving of praise.
But again, a Daytona-homage does not deserve the "chronograph of the year" title. Which brings up an intriguing question--which overlooked watch watch does?
The RRISTY pick for 2021's Chronograph of the Year? The Breitling Duograph.
Like Zenith, Breitling is famous for its chronographs. But importantly, this Duograph is no run-of-the-mill movement. It brings us Breitling’s first in-house, manually-wound split-seconds chronograph.
Historically, Breitling used the term “Duograph” to refer to a “chronograph rattrapante". A rattrapante (from the French “rattraper” – to catch up) is unquestionably elaborate. Its purpose is to measure two elapsed times at once (intermediate and split time), which it shows via two distinct hands.
As for innovation, the Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism (which is often considered on par with the tourbillon and minute repeater in terms of manufacturing difficulty), resulting in a comparatively affordable watch. Much like the Zenith, the steel version retails for about $10,000. Fortunately, though, it can be had for a significant discount on the grey market.
The most compelling aspect of this piece, though, is apparent at first glance--its stunning sunburst blue dial. David SW even compares it to the benchmark for blue dials, F.P. Journe's Chronometre Bleu (pictured below).
Of course, no watch is perfect. Admittedly, at over 15mm, the Duograph is too thick. And on a leather strap it's more of a dress watch, lacking the "go anywhere" versatility of a bracelet.
But taken as a whole, the Duograph delivers. First, it is glaringly good looking. Second, it is technically impressive. Third, it offers real value for money. Where else can you get a split-seconds chronograph for under $15k, let alone half that price?
While the Zenith Chronomaster Sport offers a superficial imitation of the Rolex Daytona, the Breitling sets its sights much higher. Indeed, it echoes the Patek Philippe Split Seconds and the F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu more than anything else. And in the world of watches, that's high praise indeed.
Equal parts ambitious and original, the Breitling Duograph deserves the Chronograph of the Year title.
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